Butter Chicken in Ludhiana by Pankaj Mishra Review

Butter Chicken in Ludhiana, first published in 1995 and now available in paperback from January 2025, is a travel narrative by acclaimed Indian author and essayist Pankaj Mishra. The book captures the mood of India’s small towns during the early years of liberalisation. As the country opened up its economy in the 1990s, a new middle class began to emerge eager, ambitious, and hungry for modern comforts. Mishra travelled across towns like Ludhiana, Ambala, Bhubaneswar, and Mangalore, documenting everything from roadside dhabas and beauty parlours to five-star hotels and shopping malls. His observations paint a colourful, chaotic, and often contradictory picture of India as it moved from tradition to modernity. The people he meets were shopkeepers, barbers, students, and housewives offer a glimpse into a society in transition, where new dreams clashed with old values.

His detailed observations highlight how economic growth brought both optimism and tension. The book shows how newfound wealth led to visible class conflicts and how cities began to struggle with the pressure of rapid rural migration. With sharp commentary and rich descriptions, Mishra explores the contradictions of a society caught between tradition and modernity. Although the tone can sometimes feel harsh or judgmental, especially when describing the behaviour or tastes of people, Butter Chicken in Ludhiana remains a powerful and honest portrait of a country in transition. It is an essential read for anyone interested in understanding the roots of India’s modern middle class and the social changes brought by liberalisation.

Book Details & Availability of Book

Butter Chicken in Ludhiana by Pankaj Mishra, published by Penguin on 13 January 2025, is a 304-page travel narrative written in English. This paperback book is available for ₹170, while the Kindle edition is priced at ₹162 ideal for readers who prefer the ease of instant digital access. The book can be purchased online through major platforms like Amazon India, Flipkart, and Penguin India’s official website. Butter Chicken in Ludhiana is a sharp, witty travelogue that captures the social and cultural transformation of small-town India in the 1990s during economic liberalisation.

Core Themes Explored in Butter Chicken in Ludhiana

The Rise of the Ambitious Middle Class: In Butter Chicken in Ludhiana, Pankaj Mishra explores how India’s economic liberalization in the 1990s led to the emergence of a new, ambitious middle class. Through his travels, he encounters individuals like a convent-educated beauty pageant aspirant and small shopkeepers planning vacations abroad, illustrating the aspirations and changing lifestyles of people in small towns. This theme highlights the shift from traditional values to a more consumer-driven mindset in post-liberalization India.
Cultural Identity and Western Influence: Butter Chicken in Ludhiana delves into the tension between preserving cultural identity and embracing Western influences. Mishra observes how globalization and exposure to Western media have impacted the values and behaviors of people in small towns. He notes instances where individuals adopt Western habits and lifestyles, sometimes leading to a sense of cultural dislocation and identity crisis.
Urbanization and Infrastructure Challenges: The book also addresses the challenges of rapid urbanization in small-town India. In Butter Chicken in Ludhiana, Mishra describes how the influx of people into urban areas strains existing infrastructure, leading to issues like overcrowding and inadequate public services. He highlights the disparity between the aspirations of the middle class and the reality of living conditions in these rapidly growing towns.
Social Stratification and Inequality: Mishra’s narrative in Butter Chicken in Ludhiana brings attention to the persistent social stratification and inequality in Indian society. He encounters individuals from various backgrounds, including those from backward castes, and observes how economic changes have affected different social groups. The book sheds light on the complexities of caste dynamics and the ongoing struggle for social mobility in the face of modernization.
The Irony of Modernization: A recurring theme in Butter Chicken in Ludhiana is the irony of modernization. While economic liberalization brings new opportunities and aspirations, it also leads to unintended consequences such as cultural homogenization and moral ambiguity. Mishra’s observations reveal how the pursuit of modernity can sometimes result in a loss of authenticity and a disconnect from traditional values.
Satire and Irony in Social Commentary: One of the most striking elements of Butter Chicken in Ludhiana is its use of satire and irony to critique social change. Mishra does not simply describe what he sees but he often mocks the excesses and contradictions of India’s new middle class. His tone can be biting yet insightful, revealing the absurdity of how people chase wealth, westernization, and modernity without fully understanding their costs. Butter Chicken in Ludhiana uses humor not just to entertain, but to expose deeper truths about human behavior and society’s response to sudden change.
Loss of Simplicity and Traditional Ways of Life: A deep sense of nostalgia runs through Butter Chicken in Ludhiana, where the author mourns the loss of the quiet, content life that existed in pre-liberalization India. Through his travels, Mishra captures how globalization and economic reform altered the rhythms of small-town living. Old traditions, family-run businesses, and cultural customs are shown to be fading or being replaced by more commercial, western-inspired lifestyles. In Butter Chicken in Ludhiana, the reader witnesses how rapid progress often erases the warmth and simplicity that once defined these places.
The Role of English and Class Hierarchy: Language plays an important symbolic role in Butter Chicken in Ludhiana. Mishra often points out the way people speak English as a sign of education, class, and aspiration. However, his commentary also reveals a hidden prejudice toward those who speak “bad” English or use it to show off. Butter Chicken in Ludhiana shows how fluency in English can act as a divider, reinforcing old class barriers in new ways. It also criticizes the way Western standards become a tool of judgment in a country trying to find its own modern identity.
Foreshadowing of Political and Cultural Shifts: Butter Chicken in Ludhiana is more than a travelogue it subtly foreshadows the political and cultural changes that would reshape India in the decades to come. Mishra notices sign of rising anger, growing religious intolerance, and deepening societal frustration, especially among the newly empowered classes. These early observations hint at the roots of today’s political climate in India. In hindsight, Butter Chicken in Ludhiana becomes a prophetic book, capturing the emotional and psychological shifts that preceded the rise of aggressive populist politics and cultural polarization.

Butter Chicken in Ludhiana by Pankaj Mishra is a compelling travelogue that delves into the heart of India’s small towns during the transformative period of the 1990s. Through his journeys, Mishra captures the essence of a nation grappling with the rapid changes brought about by economic liberalization.

Why You Should Read Butter Chicken in Ludhiana

Insight into Post-Liberalization India: The book offers a vivid portrayal of India’s transition from a socialist framework to a more market-driven economy. Mishra’s observations shed light on the aspirations and challenges faced by the burgeoning middle class during this period.
Exploration of Small-Town Dynamics: Unlike typical travel narratives that focus on metropolitan areas, Butter Chicken in Ludhiana delves into the nuances of smaller towns, revealing the unique cultural and social fabric that defines them.
Engaging Narrative Style: Mishra’s writing is characterized by its wit and keen observation. His interactions with locals and reflections on their lives provide readers with an engaging and thought-provoking experience.
Easy to Read and Enjoy: You should not expect more than a travel account, excellently written and entertaining. It is not another V.S. Naipaul though you can easily read and enjoy it. Butter Chicken in Ludhiana mixes humour with sharp observation, making it enjoyable without being heavy.
Sharp Cultural and Social Commentary: The book does not shy away from discussing sensitive topics such as caste dynamics, religious tensions, and the impact of globalization on traditional values. This makes it a valuable resource for understanding the complexities of Indian society.
Endorsements from Esteemed Writers: Renowned authors have praised Butter Chicken in Ludhiana for its insightful content. Ashis Nandy described it as “a marvellous travel book about small-town India,” while Amitava Kumar referred to it as “a love-letter to the real republic.”
Relevance to Contemporary Readers: Even decades after its initial publication, the themes explored in the book remain pertinent. Readers interested in the socio-economic evolution of India will find Mishra’s observations both enlightening and relevant.

Final Thought

This book is more than just a travelogue; it is a window into a pivotal era in India’s history, offering readers a blend of personal anecdotes and profound social insights. Butter Chicken in Ludhiana is a sharp, honest, and insightful look at a transforming India. With its vivid storytelling and cultural depth, it remains a must-read for anyone interested in the roots of India’s evolving middle class.